葡萄酒在亚美尼亚引起的革命

2020年05月12日

来源:柴老师国际教育服务

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诞生于2012年12月下旬的 In Vino ,是开设在亚美尼亚首都埃里温的第一家专业酒吧和商店。精心挑选的瓶子装饰着令人感到舒适的室内设计;辛辣的腌制肉类和奶酪充满了熟食柜台;热情洋溢的员工会为你提供每杯酒背后丰富的知识。

20世纪初,奥斯曼帝国的占领已从压迫变为大规模杀戮,使人口减少,边界显着缩小。从1922年开始的苏联统治限制了机会和选择,而1991年的独立导致了腐败,其中工业资产被剥夺,几乎没有投资来填补空白。

此外,领土纠纷也很多。与邻国土耳其和阿塞拜疆的边界仍然关闭,大片土地被吞并。在过去的三十年中,连续的专制政权导致了地方性腐败,阻碍了经济发展并限制了社会流动性。现在,大量侨民仍留在海外,在国土上,目前有三分之一的人口处于贫困状态,失业率为16%。那些有工作的人平均每月收入270英镑。

经过多年的行政犯罪,疲倦的公众终于受够了。年轻的积极分子动员起来,利用社交媒体组织大规模的抗议活动,使主要道路和公共领域陷入停顿。数周之内,执政的共和党下台。没有发生暴动。

该地区迎合了新一代的饮酒者,他们喜欢国产和进口优质葡萄酒,精酿啤酒和可追溯的起源的烈性酒,而不是苏联时期流行的,现在仍然受到被废除政府权力的旧阶层追捧的,大批量生产的伏特加酒。在旧政权不感兴趣的情况下,像In Vino这样的地方成为了进步思想的温床。挫败感,怨恨和希望在酒桌上被共享,最终演变成直接行动。

“葡萄酒创造了一个让人可以来这里交流思想而不会被统治阶级的存在所侵蚀的地方。” In Vino的所有者之一Vahe Baloulian表示,“ In Vino 成为了思想类型的人聚集和交流的地方之一。但这不是由于他们开始喝葡萄酒才发生的,但葡萄酒通常会吸引受过良好教育,更具前瞻性的人们。”

就像亚美尼亚人热衷于看到该国最古老的传统之一的葡萄酒重新崛起一样,我们恢复了在品尝各式优良葡萄酒的缓慢而轻松的氛围中,来谈论当下的热点要闻的传统。

“整个葡萄酒本身就是一个故事—从酿酒师,酿酒厂,到酿酒厂的历史。人们开始讨论有关葡萄酒的事情,然后第二天,您会看到他们相聚在一起。” Saghatelyan说, “他们讨论了很多问题,因为葡萄酒使交流畅通无阻。”

Born late-December 2012, In Vino was the first specialist wine bar and shop to open in Armenia’s capital, Yerevan. The cosy interior brims with hand-picked bottles; pungent cured meats and cheeses fill the deli counter; and passionate staff deliver a wealth of knowledge with every glass.

Ottoman occupation in the early-20th Century turned from oppression to mass killings, decimating the population and significantly shrinking borders in the process. Soviet rule, beginning in 1922, restricted opportunities and options – and independence in 1991 resulted in kleptocratic decisions where industrial assets were stripped with little investment to plug the gaps.

Additionally, territorial disputes became numerous. Borders with neighbouring Turkey and Azerbaijan remain closed, and swathes of land have been annexed. Successive autocratic regimes over the last three decades had given rise to endemic corruption, stunting the economy and limiting social mobility. An enormous diaspora now remains overseas, and on home turf, one third of the population is currently impoverished with 16% unemployed. Those with a job earn an average of £270 per month.

The public, weary after years of administrative criminality, had finally had enough. Young activists mobilised, using social media to organise large-scale protests, bringing major roads and public realms to a standstill. Within weeks, the ruling Republican Party stepped down. Not a single shot was fired.

The area caters to a new generation of drinkers, who prefer quality wines (domestic and imported), craft beers and spirits with traceable origins over the mass-produced vodka popularised during Soviet times – and a staple of more traditional haunts popular with the now-deposed political class. With the old regime disinterested, establishments such as In Vino became breeding grounds for progressive ideas. Frustrations, resentments and hopes were shared across tables, eventually boiling over into direct action.

“Wine created places where people would come and share ideas without feeling encroached by the presence of the ruling class,” said Vahe Baloulian, one of In Vino’s owners. “[In Vino] became one of those places where similar types of people would gather and exchange ideas. It didn’t happen because they started drinking wine, but wine usually attracts people who are better educated, more forward-looking.”

Just as wine has been brought back to the fore by Armenians keen to see one of the country's oldest traditions thrive, the slow, relaxed atmosphere we associate with drinking reds, whites and roses has restored that tradition of addressing the day’s issues over a fine vintage.

“The whole wine itself is a story – the winemaker, where it was made, the history of the winery. People started to discuss things around the wine, then the next day you could see them coming together as a group,” Saghatelyan said. “A lot of problems were discussed, because wine makes conversations flow.”

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